A few days ago, the Paris fashion week ended, the close line of fashion weeks in the 4 fashion capitals.
Basically, what do you get from the latest collections?
Certainly it is noted how some historic fashion houses are able to exploit and reconcile their economic availability, with their heritage and with contemporary needs. These include the new Versace logo, Schiaparelli's winning surrealist collection and Miu Miu's snow show.
Furthermore, one cannot avoid considering the continuous rise of more or less well-known independent designers and brands, such as Ottolinger, Marine Serre, Simone Rocha and Nensi Doyaka.
But the category of creatives that stands out most at the moment are the new young creative directors: Nicola Brognano from Blumarine, Fausto Puglisi from Roberto Cavalli and Nicolas from Courrèges. These are young people who, despite their age, have very relevant experience in the sector behind them with a decidedly enviable curriculum.
For better or for worse, all of them, some on their first debut, some already on their third, succeeded in making people talk about themselves. Generally and commercially, great commercial successes are already expected, while criticism is divided between those who praise change, and those who believe that the young age is the bearer of inexperience and superficiality.
Nicola Brognano comes to renew the now decayed Italian company Blumarine, founded in 1977 and part of the Blufin S.p.a group. With a training at the Istituto Marangoni, in 2015 he founded the brand that bears his name and the following year, in 2016, he won "Who is on Next".
“Nicola will bring to Blumarine the freshness of his creative talent - says Marco Marchi, Sole Director of Italian Excellence - and an innovative approach to give new impetus to an iconic brand like this. In Nicola's creativity I find all the necessary characteristics for a contemporary reading of the codes that have made Blumarine great and I am happy that it is a young Italian talent who tells this new chapter in the history of the brand, carrying on the style message of Anna Molinari. . Blumarine has represented a lot for international fashion and - I'm sure - thanks to Nicola's energy it will give us new and great satisfactions already in the near future ".
In fact, Brognano has stopped taking inspiration from the Blumarine heritage of the 90s, when sensuality and femininity were rife. His collections, in fact, recall the very popular early 2000s, with low-waisted skirts, hot pants, mini dresses and shoes with laces up to the thigh. His muses are the it-girls of the period, Paris Hilton, Christina Aguilera and Britney Spears. In this way, not only are Brognano's creations creatively interesting, but they arrive at a market niche that has long followed the rebirth of the early 2000s. A reinterpretation that is particularly good in Brognano.
From Roberto Cavalli comes Fausto Puglisi, who has always been a supporter of the Italian designer. After the great success of his apprenticeship in the USA (where he had the opportunity to dress Madonna too) he returned to Italy, where he founded his own brand.
For the brand's first collection, Puglisi creates clothes that reflect a fundamental theme of Cavalli's DNA: animal prints, available in all variations and sizes, while maintaining natural colors. Despite the gamble, this is a collection that seeks to combine red carpet with streetwear: a very timely necessity. An attempt, that of the designer, to make cultures and genres talk to each other, in an even more inclusive and future-oriented approach.
This collection represents a new creative chapter, both for the maison and for Fausto Puglisi, who was more than enthusiastic about carrying on the glamorous heritage of the maison through his own personal stylistic lens.
Finally, Courrèges re-emerges from the ashes thanks to the talent of the young Belgian Nicolas Di Felice. Prior to this he worked for six years at Balenciaga, then at Christian Dior and Louis Vuitton. He has gained experience alongside Nicolas Ghesquière. “I have always dreamed of Courrèges, with its radical and enveloping universe. It is a maison that means a lot to me and in which I identify myself for its simplicity, its clarity, not to mention its optimism. I am honored to keep these values alive, and I hope to do so with the same passion and enthusiasm as the founder ”. One of Di Felice's first goals is to target a younger audience, lowering the price of the garments and increasing sustainability. In fact, they have developed a new eco-friendly vinyl using 70% recycled bio polyurethane.
In addition to a matter of materials, Di Felice takes care of the design part, proposing a sophisticated reworking of the Courrèges heritage. This is what he defines as “radical simplicity”: a study of the forms and structures of the brand together with a modernization of the concept of basic: relevant. No outfit is left to chance, all the details are extremely accurate and, above all, relevant.
To conclude, the time has come for the rise of the new generation of designers. In such a complex historical and social moment, it will certainly not be an easy task, but from the first glances it is certainly noteworthy.