Miuccia Prada showed the return of the 2000s on the catwalk with the new Spring / Summer 2022 collection: very low waist, very short lengths, in general a lot of skin is exposed. Everything is reinterpreted with Prada's aesthetic pillars: men's fabrics, trench coats, pleated skirts, a sort of re-invention (or rather re-adaptation) of the Pradian uniform,
The collection is presented through the classic runway, where the clothes are worn by standard models: all very tall and respectful of the typical Paris Fashion Week canons of thinness . But while in 2005 this was considered the best both aesthetic and social representation, in 2021 things have changed. Now the public not only wants, but expects greater inclusiveness, both from an ethnic and a physical point of view. This is why the Miu Miu S/S22 fashion show caused a lot of indignation, particularly among the new generation of fashion lovers, labeling it with the ominous definition "it's not fashion, it's just skinny".
This concept has emerged in recent years, from the spread of body positivity: it usually indicates that type of conceptually simple fashion which, however, when placed on a thin body appears much more sophisticated. But this is thanks to the body that is enhanced and put in the foreground. "It's just skinny" therefore takes on a negative connotation, as it is the body that enhances the outfit and not the other way around.
Dealing with this topic, it is good to underline the difference between non-inclusive fashion and fashion without content.
Looking at the presentation of this collection, it can certainly be said that it lacks inclusiveness. In fact, the bodies are all thin and all tall. However, inclusiveness is not a law and is not mandatory. It is a choice of the brand and in this case, it is in line both with its identity (Miu Miu has always used models of this type) and with the fashion week for which it parades. It is undeniable that Paris has stricter and more difficult to modify canons, unlike, for example, Milan, which is much more prone to social changes.
Despite the fact that the Miu Miu collection is not very inclusive and therefore rowed against the new needs of the public, it is certainly not devoid of content.
As previously mentioned, the collection is a perfect marriage between the identity of the brand and the return of the 2000s. The sartorial fabrics, the garments that belong to the world of uniforms, the inspiration from the male wardrobe, are all aspects clearly present in the collection. At the same time it appears desirable and perfectly in line with all the trends of the last twenty years recently resurrected by Generation Z. In fact, Miu Miu is an offshoot of Prada, conceived as a side brand intended for a younger audience than the main brand. By opening a social network like Tik Tok and "scrolling" on the for you page, you can immediately see how the aesthetics are perfectly in line.
Although the dresses are shown on size 38 models, it doesn't mean they can't be worn by different sizes. In fact, if we wear these outfits on a size 48, aesthetic codes are absolutely not lost. Still you can see the Prada uniform with the heights and lengths of the 2000s. This completely undermines the idea that it is a collection focused on thinness.
To conclude, fashion certainly still has many battles to fight against elitism, fatphobia and lack of inclusiveness. Some of these reasons may be aesthetic, but many are economic advantages. Smaller sizes mean less fabric, less yarn, fewer hours of work. Lack of inclusiveness goes hand in hand with capitalism and an economic system based on profit. Unfortunately, unhinging is not as simple as we may think.